The Travel Critic

To anyone who read my recent review of the Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi, where I warned against the dangers of revisiting a beloved destination, feel free to ignore that advice. I’m about to completely contradict myself, because here I am, back at The Scarlet in Cornwall for what feels like the hundredth time. And thank goodness I am, because it’s as magical today as it was when we first visited all those years ago.

This little slice of coastal heaven has been our post-Christmas escape for over a decade—a chance to decompress, dodge family obligations (who we love, of course, in case they’re reading this), and escape the annual game of “Guess Who’s Just Died.” It’s become a ritual. But after my earlier disappointment with revisiting a favourite, I wondered if this trip might prove a mistake. Spoiler alert: it didn’t.

Let’s start with the food, which has been nothing short of revelatory over the past few visits. Spectacular doesn’t quite cover it. These aren’t just well-cooked dishes; they’re inventive, thrilling creations that surprise and delight every single evening. Monkfish in masala butter sauce. Crab raviolo swimming in a decadent bisque. Scallops paired with winter truffle. Hake in a chicken sauce that somehow works. And, the pièce de résistance, cuttlefish bolognese—a dish so unexpectedly brilliant it deserves its own Michelin star. Even breakfast is exquisite.

Frankly, the food alone is worth the trip. Forget the spa, the views, and the ambiance (all of which I’ll get to). I’d come here just for dinner. And while I’ve historically balked at dinner, bed, and breakfast rates, here, you’d be a fool not to indulge.

Now, onto that famous spa. Yes, it’s exceptional—authentic and with a palpable sense of substance. The treatment rooms are dark, cocoon-like spaces that relax you the moment you step in. The relaxation rooms live up to their name so completely you lose track of time altogether. Two new clifftop hot tubs have been added, a testament to how The Scarlet continues to evolve without losing its soul. The outdoor natural pool remains cold (of course) but invigorating, especially after a sauna overlooking the sea. In short, the spa is perfect. But you already knew that.

Then, there are the views. Perched over Mawgan Porth bay, the hotel offers vistas of waves crashing and tides retreating across a seemingly endless stretch of sand. The surrounding walks are divine—so good, in fact, that I’ve seriously considered getting a dog just to bring it here.

Finally, the service and ambiance. The team at The Scarlet are remarkable, striking that elusive balance of being professional yet warm, attentive but never overbearing. They understand the ethos of the place—it’s about relaxation, not fuss. Seeing the same familiar faces year after year speaks volumes about the hotel’s culture.

In short, I’ve recommended The Scarlet to countless people, and I’ll continue to do so. Because some places never lose their magic, and this is one of them.