Tag: 5*****
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Scott’s Richmond: Oysters, Opulence, and the Comfort of Getting It Right
Scott’s in Richmond is the sort of restaurant that makes you want to sit up a little straighter the moment you walk in, as if the building itself has opinions about posture. Oysters, opulence, and old-school service, really, what’s not to love? It is a modern throwback, which is a perfect contradiction and all the…
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The Pelican Notting Hill – Built by Gods
If the ancient gods ever convened on a cloud somewhere above W11 and announced, “Right, let’s design the world’s most implausibly perfect winter pub,” they would, naturally, bicker for a bit; Zeus insisting on thunderbolts behind the bar, Hera wanting better cushions, Dionysus demanding bottomless wine; before finally agreeing to conjure The Pelican, Notting Hill.…
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King’s Arms Oxford: Everything a Pub Should Be
Yes yes yes. A great pub. Everything a pub should be. None of your distressed brick and faux industrial nonsense, no ironic lighting or Shoreditch wankery masquerading as “authenticity”. The King’s Arms is the real thing, the sort of pub that’s been around since God was a boy and still smells faintly of ale, wood…
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The Alice, Oxford: Proof That Some Restaurants Really Are Special
For those of you who read my restaurant reviews (and, truly, I adore your stamina), you’ll know that I often talk about restaurants trying to be special. The dim lighting, the overpriced cocktails with sprigs of rosemary the size of bonsai trees, the waiter who says “awesome” when you order water; all the theatre of…
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Rudy’s: Proof That Being Good Beats Being Different
Right, so Rudy’s Pizza in Bristol. Another bloody pizza joint. Or a burger place. Those are the only two things that seem to open these days. You can’t move in a British city without tripping over an “artisan” sourdough base or a “dirty” triple-stacked beef thing. And I’m not going to stand here and make…
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Moxy Cologne Airport: The Airport Hotel That Forgot to Be Awful
Right, so here’s the thing: airport hotels should be crap. That is their function. They are not meant to be destinations, they are meant to be purgatory. They should exist in that peculiar hinterland of travel where you’ve left your home but not yet arrived anywhere, and so deserve a night in a building that…
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Aqua Brasserie: The Roast That Rules Bristol
Let’s get this out of the way straight off: Aqua in Bristol is excellent. Not “pretty good for a chain,” not “fine if you’re in the neighbourhood,” but properly, resoundingly excellent. The food, the service, the whole set up. Top notch. And yet, bafflingly, no one in Bristol seems to shout about it. Maybe it’s…
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Blacklock Manchester: Where Cavemen Go to Evolve
There’s something gloriously primeval about a big plate of meat. Stick a group of blokes in a room with dim lighting, throw down a hunk of animal, and watch them gnaw away with the sort of quiet reverence that makes you think maybe civilisation was a mistake. I’ve been called a caveman before — usually…
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Renaissance Shenzhen Bay: A Look into the Future
Shenzhen is the future. Not in the vague, Instagram-filtered sense that one throws around like confetti in European cities, but the proper, actual future. The sort where you step off a plane and feel that everything you thought was cutting-edge back home is suddenly quaint, pedestrian even. And at the heart of this futurism sits…
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W Hong Kong: Reception on the Sixth Floor, Energy Through the Roof
Right, so here we are then, in Hong Kong, a city that is less a place and more a bloody organism. It doesn’t sleep, it doesn’t yawn, it doesn’t even pause to scratch itself. It just goes. Ceaselessly. A thrum, a vibration, a caffeinated whirring of humanity that makes New York look like it’s having…
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The Travel Critic 