The Travel Critic

If the gods of Olympus ever tired of ambrosia and decided to open a taverna, they would build something very like this. The sea beyond the tables is so extravagantly blue it looks as though someone has turned up the saturation on reality itself. The fish arrives with such startling freshness that you half expect it to object to being eaten and make a bid for the water. The setting is absurdly, almost unfairly, beautiful: sun, stone, salt air and horizon arranged with the confidence of divine interior designers. And then there is the service, warm, genuine, unforced, hospitality not as a performance but as a way of life. Restaurants often claim perfection; this one comes about as close to it as any place I have encountered.