There’s a fine line between somewhere being modern and cool and somewhere being so desperate to convince you it’s modern and cool that you want to leave immediately. Thankfully, Coppa Club in Sonning sits comfortably on the right side of that line.

It’s stylish, contemporary and has a nice atmosphere, but without the sort of pretension that makes you feel you ought to be discussing natural wine and the provenance of the chef’s table while eating a sandwich.

The food follows much the same philosophy. Nothing particularly groundbreaking, no desperate attempts to reinvent the wheel, just solid, well-executed dishes that do exactly what you want them to do.

We started with the garlic-roasted prawns, served with toasted focaccia, fennel and watercress salad, and samphire chimichurri. A perfectly sensible way to start an evening, with plenty of flavour and something to mop up the juices with. Which, frankly, is half the point of focaccia.

For the main course, I went for the grilled herb chicken, accompanied by red cabbage and pomegranate slaw and basil aioli. Again, solid rather than spectacular, but that’s not a criticism. The chicken was well complemented by the freshness of the slaw and the creamy basil aioli. It was the sort of dish you happily work your way through without feeling the need to photograph every mouthful or tell your followers it has changed your life.

The service was friendly and efficient, which is always appreciated. Nobody hovering unnecessarily, nobody disappearing when you need them. Just people doing their jobs well.

And perhaps that’s the appeal of Coppa Club. It knows what it is. A good-looking, relaxed place to eat, with decent food, a pleasant atmosphere and service that makes the whole experience enjoyable.

Not every restaurant needs to be a culinary revelation. Sometimes you just want somewhere nice to go for dinner, where the food is good, the surroundings are inviting and nobody takes themselves too seriously.

The verdict: Coppa Club in Sonning is worth a visit. Modern, cool and comfortable without being pretentious. The food is solid, the service is good and the whole thing is pleasantly uncomplicated.

Which, in an industry that sometimes seems determined to make lunch feel like an audition for MasterChef, is rather refreshing.