Author: Paul Southgate
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The Wheatsheaf, Combe Hay — Sunday Roast in Heaven’s Back Garden
Those of you who’ve been unwise enough to keep up with my recent reviews will know I’ve been on a bit of a German bender — bratwurst this, Bauhaus that, and enough Riesling to irrigate the Mosel. But today, back on dear old Blighty’s turf, I found myself luxuriating in something so English it could’ve…
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Gilden im Zims: Where Beer Flows, Pork Rules, and Calories Don’t Count
It has, I realise, been something of a week of cliché for anyone who’s been masochistic enough to read my recent reviews. A dreary parade of the obvious, the tried and tested, the meat-and-potatoes (and sauerkraut) of travel food writing. And I’m not about to let you off the hook just yet, because this sorry…
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Lamb, Lager and the Modern Curry House: Urban Tandoor Does It Better
I’ve never been a big fan of cliché. But, as fate would have it, on a sodden Friday night in Bristol, I found myself stumbling around the city centre with three other men of a certain vintage doing exactly that. Four middle-aged blokes looking for a curry house after one too many pints. It was…
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The Lobster Bar at The Coppa Club – A Style-Over-Substance Masterclass
Let’s be clear: The Lobster Bar at The Coppa Club is absolutely, heartbreakingly gorgeous. It’s like someone dropped a Soho House brochure into a Chelsea Flower Show and said, “Go mad.” The Thames sparkles below, the gardens are coiffed to within an inch of their chlorophyll, and the interior looks like a Nancy Meyers fever…
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Angela’s, Margate – A Seaside Sermon in Simplicity
If there’s one thing worse than a big restaurant, it’s a big restaurant that thinks it’s small. You know the ones – open kitchen clatter, faux-distressed brick, a fig tree potted in a bin, and a menu longer than War and Peace rewritten by Jamie Oliver on coke. That’s not a dining room; it’s a…
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The Metropolitan, Whiteladies Road, Bristol: Brunch, Blessedly Reborn
Brunch was made for Bank Holidays. That delicious moment in life when you are actively encouraged to surrender to inertia. It’s a meal designed for people who have nowhere better to be, no deadlines, no emails pinging, no reason at all to look at the time. It’s a rare invitation to just sit down, shut…
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Bar 44: A Reminder That Dinner Isn’t Just Dinner
The thing we often forget, and I’m as guilty of this as anyone, is that going out for food isn’t about ‘the food.’ I mean, we all need to eat, but we can do that anywhere. The real joy lies in the ‘going out.’ It’s the atmosphere, the ambiance, the sense of occasion, and—yes—the service.…
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Fattso Burger – Don’t believe the hype
One of the more joyful quirks of the modern food scene is the democratisation of dining. These days, a tattooed bloke in a shipping container can slap a patty between two buns and win more awards than Raymond Blanc. Pizza slingers, burger flippers, taco hustlers – they’ve muscled their way into the culinary conversation, and…
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Bristol’s Food Scene Is Back – And 1 York Place Proves It
Bristol, it seems, is getting good for food again. I know, I know – the foodie influencers of the world will tell you it’s been great for the past 20 years, but let’s be honest, it dropped off around the same time as the pandemic, which is hardly surprising. Even before that, places were nice…
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Six By Nico: Bristol’s New Culinary Star Hits All the Right Notes
For the attention-span challenged: Just go. It’s brilliant. Now, for those capable of reading more than a tweet without swiping away: Six by Nico in Bristol has nailed the elusive restaurant trifecta (or, in this case, sextet)—ambiance, service, food, concept, atmosphere, and yes, that magical ingredient: the urge to come back. It’s a proper treasure…
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The Travel Critic 